A mélange of colours
“Growing with stars in her eyes for colourful gemstones, Anju Jain, Creative Director, Exquisite Fine Jewellery, Jaipur seriously pursued a career that dealt with her inclination for sparkling hues and today, her fine jewellery company Exquisite is named amongst some of the renowned brands internationally. Where she draws inspiration from, what are her strengths as a jewellery designer and how she has her finger on the pulse of new-age women, she touches upon various aspects of her brand and business in a first-person article.”
I come from a family that deals with gemstones in Jaipur. So, my interest in gemstones kindled early on in my life. That and my global exposure through a course at GIA in Hong Kong and working in a jewellery company there, kept intriguing me further. Later, when I got married to Ajay Jain, we started to export fine customised cut gemstones to a number of designers across the world.
Seeing myself surrounded with plethora of fine gems, I felt almost I had all the colours from an artiste’s palette and a degree in design at my disposal to venture into jewellery designing. Moreover, with the acquired knowledge of jewellery making, I was also equipped to not just visualise and create but also to understand the practical manufacturing of it.
So in 2007, I launched my first collection of 51 pieces, mostly comprising of earrings in semi-precious stones, at the IIJS and since then, there has been no looking back for me. In the debut show itself, our brand received a great response for our gems and it was indeed exciting to sell our only necklace set to none other than Suzzane Roshan, then wife of the Bollywood superstar Hrithik Roshan.
Tasting success right at the onset, I developed our brand Exquisite into a jewellery line that presents pure luxury by combining fine gems, innovative materials and designs that offer glamorous and global jewels, fusing classic and contemporary together. Ranging from striking, aesthetic, classic and timeless creations to daring and cosmopolitan pieces, our designs are haute-couture jewellery that is meant for women who want to make a statement. They appeal to the globally travelled women who aspire to distinguish themselves and relate to the contemporary chic style and thus, are constantly in touch with newer design trends. They are modern and fine jewellery, exactly what appeals to millennials.
Trends are definitely changing. Even social media, jewellery blogs and influencers create a big impact on the minds of consumers. We see a major shift in Indian mindset of buying jewellery as an investment to rather buying something for adornment. They don’t mind experimenting with the different fun materials too, be it wood, leather or enamel. With that, our client base too has evolved. This has posed a challenge to keep offering them something new. To overcome that, we create jewels focussing on the immense growth in the Indian market for our jewellery design studio, while keeping in mind international markets.
For satiating new age women’s design aspirations, I draw inspiration from my travels – different architectures, cultures and of course, the myriad blues of the seas. They all enchant me and inspire me to create jewellery that’s one-of-a-kind. That apart, I constantly update myself by attending various jewellery shows and workshops on design and trend forecasting and also, keep tab of fashion trends and colour trends. My design aesthetic, I would call it contemporary with an Indian twist. I love to fuse the beauty and cuts of fine gemstones with Indian and Mughal motifs to create jewels which are luxurious without being ostentatious.
If you closely observe my work, you will know from arabesque motifs and byzantine patterns to art deco, I have used all the different design genres in my various collections from time to time. Still I would say the focus of Exquisite is always on delivering top-quality and candy coloured gemstones. To achieve super intricacies within my designs, I tastefully put together filigree and engraving patterns to make the jewels radiate luxury yet have a very universal appeal to them. Carefully designed and handcrafted to perfection, my every piece of art reveals how we ensure immense quality control at every step.
This year we have launched three collections and each catering to a different set of clients. ART CARVED is a signature, one-of-a-kind collection for jewellery consumer which comprises of carved gemstones in emerald, tanzanites, rubies, etc., while in ROCK CANDY semi-precious gems are played around in simplistic yet fashionable patternmaking them fun and easy to wear. The last but not the least ART DECO is my favourite and more experimental collection comprising of enamel and byzantine motifs creating unique and eye catching jewels.